Clean a Bare, Unfinished Cedar Wood Deck With Dish Soap

Restore that natural wood smell at the same time

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If your beautiful, unfinished cedar or other natural-wood deck is looking more weathered than you like or has moss, lichen, or other dirt on it, there’s a quick and easy way to clean it without wasting money on harsh chemicals. I’ve done this many times on my own bare cedar deck and get better—and faster—results than when I used commercial deck cleaners. Note that this process may or may not work on decks that have been painted, stained, or varnished–test in a small hidden spot before attempting to use this procedure on those surfaces.

What You Will Need

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A deck-scrubbing brush–a stiff-bristled brush on a stick so you don’t have to bend down or work on hands and knees (a stiff-bristled broom may also work).
Dawn®-brand liquid dishwashing soap “with oxy and enzymes” (it’s biodegradable and safe for kids, animals and nearby plants).*
A large scrub bucket, such as a 5 gallon bucket.
Possibly necessary: a smaller brush or two to get into corners and crevices.
* Note that other brands of dishwashing soap may work just as well, but I can’t recommend them because I haven’t personally tried them.

First, Apply Soapy Water to Your Deck

1. Pour a medium amount of Dawn® dish washing liquid into the bucket–about twice the amount you’d use to wash a sink full of dishes: you want to get a lot of soap suds in the bucket (about half water, half suds)!
2. Fill the bucket with enough water to cover your deck surface or as much as it will hold without spilling out the soap suds floating on top.
3. Using the deck brush, apply the soapy water liberally to all surfaces you want to clean. If your deck is very large or if you have a lot to clean, you may need to make another batch of soapy water (repeat from step 1).
4. Wait 10-15 minutes for the solution to soak in and do its work. Make sure the surfaces don’t dry out during this time — use the hose to apply a VERY light mist of water to the drying areas. Apply more soapy water to any areas that start to dry too soon. An overcast day is best for this job.

Tips While You Wait for the Soapy Water to Work its Magic

Tip: This is a great time to get out the scrub brush and big sponge and get the whole family together to wash off deck furniture and cushions, decorations, flower pots and baskets (wash these down on the ground, not on the deck, to keep the deck from getting dirtier), porch decorations, and anything else you’ve got out on the deck. Even very little kids can help scrub flower pots and boxes. Use the same method of dish soap and soaking/rinsing after waiting 10-15 minutes that you use with the deck.

Trivia: It’s good to have children do chores around the house—they will grow up to be better adults if they do.*

Never Pressure-Wash Wood!

Important: Resist the temptation to use a pressure washer on real wood decking or siding!

Pressure-washing may appear to solve the immediate problem(s), but it raises the grain of the wood on the outside, thereby damaging the wood. This makes the wood more susceptible to rot and insects, makes splinters on bare feet more likely, and makes it difficult to stain uniformly if that is what you plan to do.

If you inherited a real-wood deck that was pressure-washed by the previous owners of your house, I recommend sanding off a very thin layer of the top of the wood. This will bring back the new-cedar smell (especially on damp early mornings or rainy days) and solve most of the problems caused by pressure-washing the wood.

After 10-15 Minutes, It is Time to Scrub/Brush Away the Dirt

5. Use the deck brush to brush or scrub the grime right off of your deck—with minimal scrubbing, even the dirtiest, darkest messes should come right off, leaving beautiful natural wood underneath.
6. When you are done scrubbing, either hose off the deck or empty your scrub bucket on a particularly dirty section and then hose off the deck using a mild to moderate water pressure to rinse away the grime and soap. DO NOT use high water pressure! This might damage the wood’s natural surface (see important note about not pressure-washing wood).
7. If there are any remaining areas that are dirty, you may need to follow this procedure again and do more scrubbing to get it clean. If all else fails, you might try a small amount of Formula 409® (which I doubt is good for the environment, so use as little as possible).

Smell the Cedar of an Unfinished Deck on a Misty Day

Notes:

  • If any dirty areas remain, repeat this process.
  • Warm water may work better, though I use the cold water straight from the hose with excellent results.
  • This process probably works just as well with other outdoor items, like plastic faux-wood decking and wood or plastic outdoor furniture; test in an inconspicuous spot before attempting to clean entire objects.
  • I recommend NOT using a pressure washer on real wood decks, bare or stained, because it causes the surface to become damaged–you can feel the difference by walking barefoot on it before and after, and the damage pressure washers do has been in the news a lot the last few years despite the fact that they are still sold for this purpose. Destroying the wood surface by using a pressure washer is probably going to reduce the wood’s lifespan, increase its vulnerability to insects, change how it works with stains and clear-coats if you plan on using them, and probably some other things as well. In any case, the cleaning method I describe above works on bare wood with mild to medium hose pressure or a mop and clear water, which don’t damage the deck surface, so pressure washers aren’t needed: all you need to do is rinse off the soapy water and grime.

If this process works just as well for you, or on other outdoor objects, or if you have an even cleaner/greener/easier solution, please let me know!

Dish Soap Works to Clean Siding and Roofs, Too

Siding

This method works tolerably well at removing dark spots, dirt, pollution, mold, and lichen from wood house siding and roofs. It also works on some other kinds of siding such as aluminum and steel.

Careful, though: be sure to experiment in a small hidden area before using this procedure on your whole house! You don’t want to have to re-paint or re-side your whole house if this doesn’t work for some reason!

+ To clean a small section of siding, use a bucket of sudsy water as described above.

+ To clean ALL of the siding, use a clean (preferably new; and mark that it is dedicated for this task) plastic suction-based pump that attaches to the end of your hose and is designed to pull bits of liquid fertilizer or bug spray or whatever (in our case, extremely concentrated sudsy water) up along with the water it dispenses. I can’t advise you on how much soap or soapy water to put into the uptake container or what setting to set the hose at: every situation is different and there are numerous models of dispensers on the market. So, a little experimentation will be necessary. Again, DON’T pressure wash real wood (even if it’s painted) and don’t forget to wait 10 minutes or more to let the soap soak and do its work. Then, use clear water to thoroughly rinse away all of the soap. Tip: Most of these suction pumps have a “clear water only” setting, so you don’t even have to reconfigure your hose to switch between these two tasks–or to mist sections that appear to be drying. A cloudy day is best for this task, and work in sections so that you can make sure no soapy water dries on the siding.

How to Remove Oil Stains from a Fibreglass Bathtub

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Fibreglass Bathtubs Stain Easily

Fibreglass is a great material for bathtubs because it’s lightweight and it can be moulded into any shape. It also has a nice glossy finish which makes it look like ceramic. What manufacturers don’t tell you (or at least us consumers don’t take the time to read the small print!) is that fibreglass can stain easily.

What Doesn’t Work to Remove Stains from an Acrylic/Fibreglass Bathtub

These are all the options I have tried to erase or at least fade the oil stains in my acrylic bathtub.

  • Bleach

You are literally throwing money down the drain. The bleach will not even make the stains look fainter so don’t waste your time.

  • Hair Colour Stripper

Yes, I tried that too and it doesn’t work. The chemicals in theory should have enough bleaching power but because they are used on hair they need to protect the skin and not cause irritation.

  • Epoxy Paint

If you fancy breathing in toxic fumes for days by all means go ahead and paint over the stains with epoxy paint. Both you and your neighbours will probably need to move out while you wait for the smelly paint to dry. Application can also be tricky – you don’t want to have an uneven finish where you can see each brushstroke. Paint rollers are advised for application, however for an even better finish it is recommended to use a paint sprayer. If you really want to go down this route, get the professionals to do this for you and book yourself into a hotel for a couple of days. A respirator has to be worn during spray painting to prevent inhaling toxic fumes.

The paint will take a minimum of 24 hours to dry. If you think you want to try this solution, you need to prepare the surface first with sandpaper and a coat of primer.

  • Fabric Brightener

I tried that, in the hope that it will at least mask the stains but there was no difference whatsoever. That’s the price you pay for believing the adverts that the brightener will make fabric whiter than white. Then again, the clue is in the name: “fabric”.

  • Peroxide

I was really excited when I saw in DIY forums that hydrogen peroxide (strong solution) can literally erase all types of stains. I ran to my local pharmacist and diligently doused my fibreglass bathtub with peroxide. I tried the first time and nothing, then drenched some kitchen towel with peroxide and left it on the stains overnight. Still nothing.

  • Baking Powder Mixed with Vinegar

Does it work? No. But it’s quite entertaining to see the fizzing action of the baking powder when you combine it with vinegar. This mixture is also supposed to be good to remove limescale – I found this was not the case for my bathtub and fittings.

  • Magic Eraser Sponge


Have you ever tried those “magic erasers” advertised on TV? They are white sponges that promise to clean stubborn stains like burnt food on cookers. Well, I tried those as well to clean my bathtub and, nope, they didn’t erase the stains. Next! (However, I am quite happy using magic erasers in the kitchen, they work rather well).

Paint Sprayer

Fibreglass Bathtub

How to Remove Essential Oils Stains from a Fibreglass Bathtub

As much as it’s a lovely relaxing experience, a hot bath with essential oils may turn to be not so relaxing when you are spending months and years trying to erase oil stains.

After trying all the above options, I had a brainwave: what about those nail file blocks, which are not as abrasive as normal nail files (or sandpaper)?

If you are careful not to apply too much pressure and are very patient and persistent, slowly but surely you can scrub off even old stains from your fibreglass bathtub.

Nail file blocks are very cheap and you can get them in any health and beauty store.

A word of warning: some of the glossy finish will look scratched in the process but with low lighting no one will notice the difference. The actual fibreglass will not become damaged but it will simply become slightly opaque where you have buffed it.

You will need to tackle each stain one by one spending a few minutes buffing it. You then move on to the next when you see that the stain has faded. It will take you days to complete the project but if you, like me, have had these oil stains in your bathtub for years, what are a few days in comparison?

Nail file blocks will wear out so you can trim off their tops with a cutter and use the abrasive surface until you can no longer hold the block because it has become too small.

10 Like Hacks In Cleaning Your Home. Watch It Here.